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Thanks for reaching out! Stego Mastic is a water-based material and is susceptible to freezing. Stego Mastic should be installed above 40°F. In temperatures below 40°F take extra care to remove moisture or frost from the area of adhesion. You want to make sure Stego Mastic is stored between 40°F and 100°F. Unfortunately, if the material freezes, it is no longer viable and will need to be disposed of. Please reach out to us at www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us and we will get you in touch with your local Stego representative. Thanks!

Hi @jeffabbott403, thanks for reaching out! Our most popular solution is StegoHome 15-Mil Below-Slab Vapor Barrier. But if you would like to discuss any considerations or products further, give us a call at 877-464-7834 and we’ll connect you with a local sales representative. Thanks!

Hi Larry, thank you for the question. In most residential new construction, industry guidance points towards having the vapor barrier in direct contact with the placed floor slab (above the sub-slab insulation). We do see exceptions, such as when installing radiant heat, but the vapor barrier over insulation has benefits for slab placement and long-term flooring performance. With that said, StegoHome will serve its function (impede diffusion of soil vapor) in either orientation and it’s always recommended to check with the insulation manufacturer for any additional guidance. Check out this article for more info: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/when-and-where-to-install-a-below-slab-vapor-barrier

The 3" exposed top of the wall, leaves the sill plate exposed intentionally. Note the encapsulation is not being used at all to provide warmth as you indicated...it is being used to seal off moisture/humidity and reduction of resulting mold on any organic material (ie dirt) other than the above floor joists. The other reason for the exposure is for termite/ant inspection. In the winter, you actually want the crawl space cold, to prevent condensation forming on the sill plate and rim board and in this scenario you'd insulate under the floor between the joists with tight fitting Polyisocyanurate foam board sealed into place, against the under side of the above floor. Otherwise, you'll be heating the basement, not insulating under the floor and you should have the same foam board cut-to-fit between the joists, pressed up against the rim board, and sealed with expanding closed cell foam (ie Great Stuff, at the box store). The main source of moisture is down along the walls and over the flooring. For a basement with partial crawl space, you'd be encapsulating the dirt but not the useable floor space.

Another reason to leave the gap to to ensure that any moisture thtanwicks up the underside of the material isn't absorbed by the sill plate. Keeping a gap reduces rot.

Thanks for the question! Stego does not recommend applying Pango Claw directly to plumbing penetrations. Here’s a link to our installation instructions which includes our recommended methods for sealing penetrations: www.stegoindustries.com/hubfs/Installation/Pango-Wrap-Termite-Vapor-Barrier-Detailed-Installation-Instructions.pdf. If you have further questions, don't hesitate to reach out and we can put you in touch with your local rep.

What i would do is dry out the crawl space of course with either fans or a dehumidifier after its dry I'd make sure the crawl space is somewhat level. Than roll out vapor barrier.

I have heard to avoid gravel. It will need a good cleaning too. That mud has made a mess of everything. It is level enough I would say, maybe a couple high spots. How do you go about taping the barrier with dirt everywhere? I figure that I would have trouble getting the tape to stick.

And the water still gets in. It just gets pumped out immediately. We have a very high water table. I would hope that a vapor barrier could hold all of that water back. I have my doubts though. I could be wrong.

I would give the foundation a quick wipe down to help the tape stick an I would also use vapor barrier glue to make sure it sticks. An if the vapor barrier is installed correctly you shouldn't have any problems with moisture getting through. Just got to make sure all the seams are all taped an should be good.

Thank you for all of the input. I am still confused about how to lay the barrier with a french drain being there. Would I just lay the barrier on each side of the french drain?

Bill, thanks for your question. We put down stone for the purpose of the installation video. In general, what is under the liner (i.e. stone, dirt, or other) will vary depending on project conditions and needs. Thanks!

@@StegoIndustries Thanks, I've also seen some companies put another soft liner on the ground prior to the plastic liner? What does that do and is it really needed or just special cases. I wasn't planning on that additional material but will have 2 sump pumps and piping around the perimeter.

Thanks, @@billmitchell5805. The soft liner beneath the vapor barrier you’ve seen is probably a geotextile fabric of some sort. The intention is to provide some extra protection for the vapor barrier, particularly on more unforgiving, rocky subbases. Although it can provide extra utility, in most cases, if using a high-performance vapor barrier with good strength characteristics, a protective layer of geotextile fabric probably isn’t needed in our opinion. We recommend looking for vapor retarders or barriers that meet ASTM E1745, a performance standard that includes fairly robust strength (e.g. puncture and tensile) requirements. You may have also seen a dimpled drainage mat beneath the vapor barrier. That is more intended as a means to help move any potential liquid water infiltration under the vapor barrier to the desired location (e.g. perimeter drain/sump pump). We hope this helps.

Hi Nicole, thank you for reaching out. You’ll likely find a lot of vent cover and screen options at any home supply center. If you are looking for a more specialized vent option, you might check out www.smartvent.com. I hope that helps. Thanks!

Lee, thank you for your question. StegoCrawl Tape is engineered with an advanced adhesive to provide very good initial and long-term bond to our StegoCrawl Wrap vapor barrier and retarder products, as well as ideal for sealing around pipe and utility penetrations (often made of plastic). Thus, with a properly prepared (i.e. clean, dry) surface of the old plastic sheeting, we would not anticipate any issues with sticking StegoCrawl Tape to both surfaces. We hope that helps.

Avoid using "old thin plastic sheeting". The main thing you want, from this company or one like it, is virgin material. Otherwise, cheaper sheeting is typically blends of recycled material and it will degrade fast, become brittle, and tear. Their material is 15mils thick...they sent me a sample and it is EXTREMELY thick....I could barely push a pen tip through it...and that was with significant effort. After doing all that work, you don't want to find it easily shredding in the future.

With sound so we can hear the swearing.

I own a small three-man firm. The lowest crawlspace I will quote is 2 full blocks + a cap block high. That’s 20 inches . Once we cover the ground with crawlspace felt (which is rolled out from a 40” roll) then you can roll to your destination. After the floor is rolled on, you can roll or slide. They pay a premium but it’s not that bad.

I can move much easier on my back then turn over. For some reason my shoulder blades can take more of a beating than my elbows.

​@@thetruthchannel4634 thanks very much....I will look for crawlspace felt never heard of it before

Yes! I'm looking for one of those videos.

Gravel provides a solid foundation for your concrete as it can be compacted. It also improves drainage, preventing water from pooling beneath the concrete.

@@PushaDee thanks, yeah I can see how the gravel could also work as a barrier to reverse water vapor coming up from the soil under it also.

Hi Adam, we used the StegoCrawl Wrap 15-Mil Vapor Barrier in this video. You can explore all our offerings here: shop.stegoindustries.com/stegocrawl/

Paul, thank you for your inquiry. Where to terminate the vapor barrier should be determined by the Design Professional. Most design professionals will specify ASTM E1643 which addresses installation practices for below-slab vapor barriers. In that standard the perimeter termination is prescribed in paragraph 6.5 as: “Extend vapor retarder over footings and seal to foundation wall, grade beam, or slab at an elevation consistent with the top of the slab or terminate at impediments such as water stops or dowels.” Thus, you have three locations the vapor barrier can be sealed to: foundation wall, grade beam, or the slab itself. So, if impediments don’t prevent you from doing so, yes, you should, in following the guiding standard, wrap up the outside edge of the [cured] concrete slab. If, however, bringing the vapor barrier to the height of the slab exposes it to the elements (sunlight particularly), you may want to consider terminating and sealing at grade as UV is a major pro-degradant of plastics. This would NOT meet the standard, but it is often a deviation project teams approve for reasons cited. Once you’ve determined where the vapor barrier is terminated, you then need to decide if you will be sealing the vapor barrier to the concrete slab, the foundation wall, or the grade beam. Having said all that, again, first and foremost, be sure to defer to the Design Professional’s specification or installation instructions before proceeding.

See previous post and reply.

See previous post and reply.

Szymon, thank you for your inquiries. As best as possible you should try to minimize any “leaks” in the encapsulation system. If you are encapsulating the walls and ground, the floor joists between the first floor and crawl space do not need to be “windproof”, but any gaps that allow bulk airflow between the crawl and first floor should be minimized with caulk or an expansion foam. If you are in a humid climate zone you should consider blocking your ventilation vents. Using closed cell foam insulation board cut to size and sealed with expansion foam is usually sufficient to block existing vents. Underneath the vapor barrier you have several options depending on your conditions. A granular layer may be helpful to drain liquid water (if present) to a lower point in the crawl where it can be ejected via a sump pump and a strong vapor barrier like ours can be installed over crushed stone. If you do not have liquid water issues you can install the vapor barrier directly on the ground. Wishing you the best of luck with your project!

@@StegoIndustries I am at the stage of building the foundation. I can still decide whether the ventilation windows will be or not. Moderate zone. Poland. We do not have mechanical ventilation. There is gravity ventilation. The question is, when the CRAWL SPACE is closed, there must be an air supply from the house? Does this air have to be mechanically pressed in? Does there have to be a dehumidifier? I don't like letting air into the CRAWL SPACE from home. There is wool in the floor. Foundation walls are not insulated. By letting in air from the house I will raise the CRAWL SPACE temperature, but a lot of this temperature will escape through the walls. The design is like this. Foundation walls 60 cm above the ground. On this a 25 cm floor filled with wool. Windproofing under the floor. The walls of the house will stand on this floor. Outside, wind insulation SD 0.3. Inside there is a vapor barrier SD 8 or 10. The foundation walls DO NOT HAVE thermal insulation. We close CRAWL SPACE. Foil on the ground all the way to the wreath. What's next?

@@szymonkoronkiewicz2526 we would like to help you more. If you could submit your information here (www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us ) with details about your project, we will get you in touch with a Stego Rep that can help answer your specific project questions. Thank you!

Roy, great question. Liquid water and water vapor need to be considered separately. First, let’s answer your direct question about the sump pump. If liquid water is present in your crawl space you should definitely grade the crawl space towards a low area where the liquid water can gather in a sump pit and be ejected with a sump pump. To assist, a granular base on top of the compacted dirt will help serve as a capillary break and allow liquid water to more easily flow to the low point you’ve established. On the other hand, relative humidity is initially present in your crawl space in the form of vapor, which is a gas. A vapor barrier with a low enough permeance rating will prevent a significant amount of water vapor from passing from one side of the membrane to the other. As you’ve correctly identified, the vapor/humidity driving out of the ground tries to reach equilibrium with the humidity of the crawl space. As nature seeks balance it forces the vapor to the bottom side of the vapor barrier where it condenses on the plastic through the process of phase change (gas becoming liquid, just like you see on a cold glass of ice water in the summer). Once in liquid form, gravity takes over and those beads of moisture can collect and follow the grade you’ve established to your sump pit or, they will cycle relatively harmlessly back into the soil. Nature will continue this cycle of trying to reach equilibrium. If you wanted to reduce the amount of moisture building up on the bottom side of the vapor barrier, you could consider a radon fan that draws from underneath the vapor barrier. Just remember to treat bulk water and water vapor with two different solutions as they are two different-sized sets of molecules. If you have more questions, reach out to us here: www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us. We have local reps ready to assist.

Hi there! You can see some images of a finished crawl space on our website here: www.stegoindustries.com/products/stego-crawl-wrap. Scroll through the product images for close-up details, installation, and completed installation shots.

Hi Tom. StegoCrawl Wrap Vapor Barrier is solid white. This helps make your crawl space look clean when fully encapsulated with StegoCrawl products.

Hi @Pigman7120. Bryce Skeeters here from Stego Industries. Pea gravel is like tiny little pillows for our plastic. Both our 10 mil and 15 mil are tested per the requirements of ASTM E1745 and are extremely strong to puncture resistance and tearing. This standard governs products used on commercial construction sites to be placed on top of gravel directly beneath a newly placed concrete slab. In other words, even though our crawl space material won’t be driven on by an 18,000 lb laser screed over top of #57 gravel, we still hold it to those lofty expectations. I have our 15 mil in my house, but I upgraded to 15 mil because the permeance is even better than the 10 mil. If you need more information or product info, free to reach out to us at contact@stegoindustries.com or visit our blog at www.stegoindustries.com/blog. Best wishes!

It is expected, infact one competitor plans a perimeter drain under the floor wrap....but, what's going on outside is the main concern. If you do not have gutters, get some. If you do not have a 2% grade 10-20 feet away from your foundation, try to achieve that. Also, excavating around your foundation and ensure proper drain tile slope and appropriate gravel above that tile (a column of gravel with screen on both sides) or some other method to always allow free flowing drainage to the tile is the proper solution. Treating the interior is a bootstraps method that only postpones the real problem. Exterior ground water against your footing/wall is not ok, especially in freezing areas. Water and ice degrade the mortar between cinderblock as well as permeates poured foundations.

@@richcombs4805 Agreed. Take care of the water outside. then take care of the inside

Thanks Christopher! If you're looking for more details on concrete curling we drill down on the facts here: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/curling-and-warping-of-concrete-slabs-5-facts-you-should-know

Thank you for your questions, Sandy! The crawl space floor can be either gravel or dirt. StegoCrawl is very durable, but be sure to clear the crawl space floor of any debris or large jagged rock. For more tips, check out our article about preparing your crawl space for encapsulation: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/10-helpful-tips-to-help-you-prepare-for-a-crawl-space-encapsulation-project

Hi Jon! Sorry for the late reply. StegoCrawl 15 mil is durable enough to have gravel installed over top of it. Having said that, we recommend an aggregate no greater than ¾” crushed stone. We have additional tips for preparing your crawl space for encapsulation here: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/10-helpful-tips-to-help-you-prepare-for-a-crawl-space-encapsulation-project

I simply opened my crawlspace door and saw a snakeskin. I simply shut the door and I won't be back

@@thetruthchannel4634 haha I seen one under my house not long ago as well.

@@thetruthchannel4634 I just...I literally just did this. Well, after taking a couple pics to share with my lovely wife.

@@arnoldrogers-beckley3374 oh she’ll love knowing there’s snakes in the crawlspace eating up those mice. Tell her that. It might help. Actually I do crawlspace encapsulations for real. Finished one yesterday where the mice had knawed thru and made 40 holes in the air ducts. Fixed them all. No real charges

Thanks for your question, Robert. In most situations, it makes sense to seal off your vents, encapsulate the crawl space, and condition or dehumidify the air above your liner. You can read more about the benefits of eliminating vents here: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/the-benefits-to-eliminating-your-crawl-space-vents. To close off the vents, a lot of contractors block them with closed cell foam board and seal the gap with an expansive foam spray for a snug fit.

It's a studio mockup genius

Hi Rob, thank you for your interest. In order to assist you more with your crawl space project, we would like to connect you with your local Stego Representative. Please email us at contact@stegoindustries.com or call us at 877-464-7834. You can also submit an inquiry via online here: www.stegoindustries.com/contact-us

just say how much for square foot simply is that

adam tettran , What if you aren’t factoring in what’s included and NOT included first ??? How would any price per square foot, mean anything to solving the moisture issue down there ??? This video doesn’t address those other important parts of this encapsulation project at all.

@@adamtettran7471 there is different thicknesses and they cant really say what a contractor charges they just provide back up that the product works and how it should look and how it helps the home including dry rot sickness and health issues and energy efficiency 😄

@@adamtettran7471 probably just material cost less than €1000 per 1000 sqft, including vapor barrier sheets + crushed stones

Cody, thanks for your question! The crawl space floor can be either gravel or dirt. StegoCrawl is very durable, but be sure to clear the crawl space floor of any debris or large jagged rock. For more tips, check out our article about preparing your crawl space for encapsulation: www.stegoindustries.com/blog/10-helpful-tips-to-help-you-prepare-for-a-crawl-space-encapsulation-project.

No, you DO NOT need to put any gravel there, I'm doing in my own house and I'm not using any gravel, polythene on the ground and done. I'm an architect. Cheers